Every year, nearly half a million Canadians visit Germany, a number that increased by 8.8 per cent between 2016 and 2017 alone — and for good reason. Even though it is only about the size of Newfoundland and Labrador, Germany offers an amazing array of natural and cultural landscapes — from enchanted forests and rugged mountain ranges to North Sea beaches and islands shaped by the tides; from medieval castles to cutting-edge museums and architecture. Once in Germany, international travellers can access the country’s diverse offerings easily and quickly. A car trip from the southernmost to the northernmost points takes no more than 10 hours; a flight takes fewer than 90 minutes.
Visitors from Canada are especially drawn to Bavaria, which welcomes a third of all Canadian visitors to Germany and offers spectacular alpine scenery, medieval towns and the sophisticated delights of Munich, home of the world-renowned Oktoberfest.
A quarter of all Canadian tourists to Germany visit Berlin, home to fabulous museums, three opera houses, a famous club scene and a creative “buzz” that few cities can match. In Germany’s capital, there are two lesser-known sites I particularly enjoy. The first is the Berlin Wall Trail. At approximately 160 kilometres long, this hiking and bike trail follows the course of the former East German wall, which encircled all of West Berlin. Sections of historic interest, with traces of the old Wall, alternate with stretches of natural beauty.
Not even half an hour away from the centre of Berlin by public transport is the second site: the palaces and parks of Potsdam, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Encompassing 5,000 acres (2,023 hectares), the site dates back to 1745, when Frederick the Great commissioned Sanssouci Palace to be built as his summer residence. Today, visitors find numerous Baroque monuments and 17 palaces surrounded by opulent parks. Potsdam’s appearance is notable not just for its royal palaces and parks, but also for many luxury villas that give it an almost Mediterranean flair.
The island to forget time
About 300 kilometres north of Berlin, in the Baltic Sea, lies the little-known island of Hiddensee. Shaped like a seahorse and almost 17 kilometres long, it is only 250 metres wide at its narrowest point. Cars are not allowed on the island. The majority of the public transport and goods traffic is provided by horse-drawn carriages. The special blend of unspoiled nature and total tranquillity has been attracting novelists, poets, artists and actors to the island for more than 100 years. Today, the island is popular with families who enjoy its spectacular beaches and explore its many charms on foot, by bicycle or on horseback.
Travelling counter-clockwise through the North German Plain, one reaches another unique UNESCO World Heritage Site: the Zollverein Coal Mine Industrial Complex or, in German, Zeche Zollverein, a vast former industrial site in the city of Essen. Called by some the “most beautiful coal mine in the world,” its buildings are outstanding examples of the modern movement in architecture. It consists of a complete installation of an historic coal-mining site: the pits, coking plants, railway lines, pit heaps, miners’ housing and consumer and welfare facilities. More than 25 years after its closing, the once largest coal mining complex in Europe now hosts numerous events, including concerts, open-air cinemas, a gourmet festival, the avant-garde Red Dot Design Museum, the Ruhrtriennale Arts Festival and a swimming pool and ice rink.
Continuing our counter-clockwise circle, two hours south of the Zollverein lies one of Germany’s most beautiful river valleys: the Moselle. Between Trier and Koblenz, the river flows through a region that has been shaped by man for more than 2,000 years, ever since it was first cultivated by the Romans. Terraced vineyards, which are home to some of the country’s best Rieslings, seem to rise up to the sky. Many castles towering over romantic wine villages line the banks of the river. The small spa town of Traben-Trarbach was the second largest wine-trading city in Europe after Bordeaux at the turn of the 20th Century; the enormous wealth generated by wine trading led to the construction of many unique Art Deco buildings, which are still in excellent condition today.
For me, one of the most important aspects of visiting a foreign country is sampling its cuisine. While several German dishes have become household names in North America, here are a few that readers might not be familiar with and that I particularly enjoy.
Roasts, soups and breads
Sauerbraten, which literally translates as “sour roast” is a German pot roast prepared from a variety of meats. It was originally made of horse meat, but nowadays it’s usually beef, though venison, lamb, mutton or pork are also possibilities. Before being cooked, the meat is marinated from three to 10 days in a mixture of vinegar or wine, water, herbs, spices, and seasonings — the marinade ingredients can vary depending on the region. The long process results in a tender, deeply-flavoured dish with a wonderful sauce. In some parts of Germany, Sauerbraten is accompanied by potato pancakes known as Kartoffelpuffer or Reibekuchen; in others, it comes with red cabbage, dumplings, Spätzle — egg and flour noodles — or boiled potatoes.
Another one of my favourite dishes is Linsensuppe, a hearty lentil soup typically served in the fall and winter. Aside from the lentils, its rich and satisfying flavour is due to the addition of a ham hock or ham bone and smoked sausages.
In my opinion, nothing goes better with a soup or stew than rustic German bread. For centuries, sourdough-leavened breads made from grains such as rye or spelt have been a staple of the German diet. The German word for supper, Abendbrot, literally translates to “evening bread.” Estimates say there are 3,000 varieties of bread in Germany, many specific to certain regions. It is no surprise that Germany’s bread culture has been named an Intangible
Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.
Last, but not least, no vacation would be complete without the purchase of souvenirs — not just for friends and family, but also as a special treat for oneself and as a permanent reminder after the trip has come to an end. Foreign visitors to Germany like to purchase traditional hand-crafted items such as Christmas decorations. However, German design is not just confined to the past, but continues to evolve in exciting and surprising ways. To purchase beautifully designed, functional gifts and souvenirs, why not get off the beaten track and walk into a small, well-stocked houseware store located in a historic city centre instead of the touristy gift shop next door? Or why not venture into a luggage, clothing, toy or book store? Germany still has many family-owned specialized retailers selling beautifully designed quality products that are made to last and will impress your friends and family. From kitchen knives to porcelain, from wallets and handbags to slippers and scarves, and from heirloom wooden toys to family board games, the possibilities are endless.
Sabine Sparwasser is the ambassador of Germany to Canada.
