Who doesn’t like crêpes? When in doubt over what to serve, you can always turn to crêpes. Although many see them as a special treat for breakfast (and so they are), they may be creatively introduced into virtually any part of a menu. Crêpes Suzette set aflame with brandy can proudly lay claim to being one of those universally popular desserts.
As a child growing up on a farm in Northern Ontario, crêpes were not part of our family’s culinary vocabulary, never mind menu. As a matter of fact, neither was the word menu. On the farm back then, we just planned and prepared meals. Mom, however, did make the most extraordinary pancakes, sometimes stuffed with jam and cottage cheese before being lovingly baked in a woodstove oven. That was a surprise usually reserved for stormy winter days.
My next serious and frequent encounter with “pancakes” was when my husband, our wee daughter and I moved to Moscow in the early ’70s. An evening ballet performance at the Bolshoi inevitably meant feasting on blinis and caviar at intermission. To be honest, I impatiently waited for the intermissions to come, eager to savour once again the greatest culinary experience Moscow had to offer at that time. These blinis were small yeast-raised pancakes, made with buckwheat flour so they tended to be slightly heavy. Always accompanied by chilled vodka, that remarkable combination has retained a principal position (in one form or another) in my repertoire of recipes throughout the decades.
With a move to Brussels, crêpes soon took centre stage. These paper-thin pancakes — subtle in flavour, delicate, tender and flexible — lend themselves to all sorts of splendid creations. Immediately, my Russian blinis and caviar (always served with luscious dollops of sour cream), re-emerged on our entertaining menus as crêpes and caviar either served rolled as an hors d’oeuvre or flat as an appetizer at the table. Even repeat guests would count on their reappearance and disappointment reigned if I decided to give the crêpes a break.
Would it be surprising if I said that a move to South Korea meant my crêpes and caviar experienced another mutation? Inspired by the appealing “pouch-like” shape of the popular Asian dish, dim sum, my crêpes evolved into irresistible “sachets.” Filled with sour cream and caviar, each little sachet was securely tied closed with a carefully knotted fresh chive stem. On our return to Canada, Canadian smoked salmon replaced the caviar.
But crêpes have a life far beyond Crêpes Suzette and crêpes and caviar. They marry well with a broad spectrum of flavours, from savoury to sweet: seafood, poultry, escargots, avocado, fruit, custards, ice cream, just to name a few. Such combinations are easily assembled and without exception, always scrumptious. Just think, have you ever not enjoyed a crêpe? Crêpes also like being pampered — dusted with icing sugar, drizzled with syrup, bathed with sauces and garnished artistically with fresh herbs, berries, nuts or curls of dark chocolate.
Savoury crêpes are the perfect solution as a main course for a brunch or light lunch, particularly when served with a side salad. Equally so, sweet crêpes for dessert will have those at the table scraping their plates and wishing for more.
The beauty of crêpes is that the batter can be prepared in advance, placed in airtight plastic containers and kept refrigerated for up to two days or frozen for months without compromising the quality of the final product. I always keep crêpe batter on hand in my freezer. Once thawed, batter will appear to have separated, but worry not. Transfer it to a bowl and whisk it thoroughly before dropping it onto a preheated (medium-low heat) griddle or skillet.
The following recipe is one of my latest creations. It’s an hors d’oeuvre that will leave guests puzzled, surprised and reaching for yet another. You will need a little patience as you perfect the cooking technique; however, it will be well worth the effort. Bon Appétit!
Bocconcini Crêpe Sandwiches
Makes 16 hors d’oeuvres
1 tbsp (15 mL) all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup (125 mL) crêpe batter*
1/3 cup (80 mL) chopped smoked turkey thigh (or ham)
1 1/4 tsp (6 mL) vinaigrette (a mustard-herb variety)
1 1/2 tbsp (23 mL) coarsely chopped fresh dill weed
2 tbsp (30 mL) bocconcini cheese, chopped
1 1/2 tbsp (23 mL) pesto
Aioli Mayonnaise
1 tbsp (15 mL) mayonnaise
1/5 tsp (pinch) finely chopped fresh garlic
Garnish: 16 petit sprigs of fresh dill weed
1. Whisk flour and salt into crêpe batter to form a smooth, slightly heavier mixture. Toss chopped smoked turkey (or ham) with vinaigrette and set aside.
2. Preheat a medium-size nonstick skillet placed over medium-low heat. Slowly and carefully drop four small portions (i.e., about 3/4 tsp or 4 mL) of crêpe batter onto skillet to create coin-size crêpes (diameter: 1 inch or 2.5 cm). Quickly top each cooking crêpe first with 1/4 tsp
(1 mL) of chopped dill weed, then 1/3 tsp (2 mL) of bocconcini and finally 1/4 tsp
(1 mL) pesto, keeping all ingredients within the perimeter of the tiny crêpe. (Note: Do not turn over.) Promptly transfer crêpes to a plate.
3. Repeat procedure (i.e., step 2) to make 4 more garnished petit crêpes and transfer them to the plate.
4. Drop 8 similar petit portions of crêpe mixture onto the skillet. As crêpes set, turn them over and cook briefly. Remove the crêpes from the skillet one at a time, and place each squarely on top of one of the cheese and pesto garnished crêpes to create tiny “crêpe sandwiches”. Promptly transfer crêpe sandwiches to a parchment paper lined tray; cover closely with plastic wrap.
5. Repeat formula (Steps 2 to 4) to make 8 more crêpe sandwiches.
6. Prepare the mayonnaise by whisking together mayonnaise and garlic; set aside.
7. Up to 45 minutes before serving, add a touch (i.e., 1/8 tsp or 2 drops) of Aioli Mayonnaise to top of each crêpe sandwich, top with 3/4 tsp (4 mL) of chopped smoked turkey (or ham) mixture and garnish with a small sprig of fresh dill weed. Cover loosely with wax paper and refrigerate until shortly before serving.
* To make 1 1/3 cups (325 mL) of crêpe batter, sift together 1/2 cup (125 mL) of all purpose flour and 3/4 tsp (4 mL) of granulated sugar in a small bowl. In a medium size bowl, beat together one egg, one egg yolk and 1/2 cup (125 mL) of milk. Continue to beat constantly, gradually add half the flour mixture to the milk mixture; add another 1/4 cup (60 mL) of milk, the remaining flour mixture and finally 2 tbsp (30 mL) of melted butter. Beat well.
